The repair depends on which part of the tap is allowing water through. A competent plumber will normally identify the failed internal component first, then replace or service that component rather than removing the entire fitting.
Common repairable faults include:
- Worn washer: Traditional pillar taps often use a rubber washer to create a seal when the tap is closed. A hardened, split or misshapen washer can allow a steady drip from the spout.
- Damaged cartridge: Mixer and single-lever taps commonly use a ceramic or thermostatic cartridge. Limescale, wear or internal damage can prevent the cartridge from shutting off the water properly.
- Failed O-ring or seal: Seals around the spindle, handle or tap body can deteriorate and cause water to escape around the handle or base rather than from the spout.
- Limescale or debris: Deposits can stop moving parts and sealing surfaces from closing correctly. Cleaning may help in minor cases, although damaged components generally need replacement.
- Loose internal parts: A loose retaining nut or worn fitting can affect the alignment of the valve and create a leak that may be resolved without changing the tap body.
Diagnosis is important because the visible drip does not always identify the failed part. Water from the spout usually points to a valve, washer or cartridge problem, while water around the handle or mounting area may indicate a seal, connection or body fault. A plumber will usually isolate the supply, remove the handle or valve mechanism, inspect the relevant components and check the tap once it has been reassembled.
Replacing only the failed component is generally the less disruptive option, but the replacement part must match the tap’s design and dimensions. Some taps use proprietary or less readily available mechanisms, and an old cartridge may be difficult to identify accurately without removing it. Forcing a seized handle or valve can damage the tap body, so this is best avoided if the fitting is heavily scaled or corroded.
Whole-tap replacement may be more appropriate when:
- the tap body is cracked, distorted or badly corroded;
- the threaded connections are damaged;
- the fitting has repeatedly developed leaks;
- the internal mechanism is unavailable or uneconomical to replace;
- the tap is incompatible with the existing basin, pipework or water connections; or
- repairing one component would leave other worn parts likely to fail soon afterwards.
A dripping tap should not be ignored simply because the leak is small. Continued dripping can worsen limescale around the outlet, stain the basin and indicate that a valve or seal is deteriorating. Before attempting a repair, turn off the appropriate isolation valve or the household water supply and protect the basin from loose parts. Do not overtighten the handle to stop the drip, as this can damage the valve and make later removal more difficult.
Ideal Plumbing Services can assess the fitting and explain whether a component-level repair or complete replacement is the more suitable option. The decision should take account of the tap’s condition, the availability of compatible parts and the likely reliability of the repair, rather than treating every dripping tap as a reason for replacement.
